Fabulous Weather, just like Camelot - rains at night and beautiful days.

DAY 15 – Sunday, September 12th, 2010



Stayed in and painted all day. Chris was feeling better (felt like she was getting a cold….nothing serious. Our sleep patterns are still messed up and probably not getting enough rest.) So, she decided to walk to the town. I wanted to get some work done, so I opened my front window to a glorious day of absolutely perfect weather. Sundays are a busy day in the Port of Dinan, so there is a lot of activity even at our end of the street.


The gate entrance to the Grand Maison Vigne is beside our cottage, so a lot of people walk past looking for the entrance. If I did not mention before the home of Yvonne Jean-Haffen (our benefactor) is high on the hill above our cottage and is open as a museum. Everything has been preserved as she had it. She lived from 1895 to 1993. The house is full of paintings of her work including murals. She was a muralist and worked on some murals in the U.S.


Anyway, back to my day. If I look up, people usually speak to you. This is such a friendly place and so very polite. The language is made to be gentile – bonjour, s’il vous plait, merci beaucoup, Madame, Monsieur. None of this “hey you” attitude. Two young couples were walking by, I looked up. They were dressed very “Parisian” and they were from Paris, here visiting for the day. The young man asked if his girlfriend could use the toilette. (Looked desperate to me!). Anyway, he spoke a little English and was so excited to know I was from America. “I love Americans”, he said. “They are wonderful people!” They left and later drove by in their car and pulled up beside my window to tell me good-bye. Gave them my card and told them to call if they get to Washington, DC.


Also, had a visit from an artist who will be the resident in the cottage for November. We exchanged cards and I told him I would send him updates on what may be needed in the cottage. The cottage is like a society of artists who do not know or will probably never meet each other, but share this common experience and each leaves information and something to be remembered by here. How wonderful is that?!!


DAY 16 – Monday, September 13th, 2010


I decided to arrange a reception at the cottage on Sunday, September 26th for the foundation members to choose one of my paintings for their collection, so I sent emails to the main contacts. My instructions were to call the President to get the date approved. That made me a little nervous – making a telephone call in French (he does not speak English!). So, I decided to write a letter instead and drop off at his office in Dinan. The Foundation’s office (or mailing address) is the Municipal Library. So I walked there (up the Matterhorn!) to find the library. Found the street and address – it is in a huge cultural complex, very contemporary. After asking directions to the “Bibliotheque”, I found it was closed. Mondays are “iffy” as to what’s open and closed. So, take advantage and explore! (Oh, on getting a message to the President – I wrote out my message in French and then called him on his cell. I think we understood each other alright and he approved the date. Just to make sure I followed up on his cell with a text message.

These are pictures of “The Basilique” - a 12th century chronicle relates the adventures of Riwallon of Dinan, who made a bit of a name for himself during the First Crusade...he is supposed to have made a vow that he would build a church in Dinan if his life was spared – not sure if this is really true, but part of the church is really 12th century, the rest is modern (15th or 16th centuries).

The Clock Tower was the town hall up till the Revolution. The workings of the clock were made in Nantes 500 years ago (still ticking!)

The “Eglise St. Malo” is a magnificent Gothic church whose acoustic qualities are perfect for the rich tones of the English organ built in 1889. The best organists in the region fall over each other to some and give concerts. Magnificent stained glass window. Supposedly there is a 1920s stained-glass version of the town’s history in the cathedral, but I missed seeing that. I want to go back on a Sunday to see what the services are like. I’m not religious, but enjoy seeing local traditions.






DAY 17 – Tuesday, September 14th, 2010


Worked on paintings during the morning. Chris and I decided to find a Renault dealer to get the broken tail light fixed. After a brief trip that “Mandy” our GPS person took us on to an address that was not a Renault dealer, but a beautiful coastal village named Richardeau. Nothing there but a bar. So, we went in hopes of lunch. No, it was just a bar with drinks and horse racing on the television. So we got a drink and discovered our phones picked up a great internet signal there. So we caught up our emails and facebook. Did notice a bakery a few doors down and grabbed a baguette for the road. Chris and I both like the “end” pieces…so we start at each end and work toward the middle.

We did find another Renault dealer that Art (my husband) had found and sent a partial google map to us, but unfortunately we couldn’t access the whole address. So we stopped at our supermarket “InterMarche” and asked a lady who knew exactly where it was and drew out a crude map. So, she was right and we found it!


Okay, the picture! Two American women with little French in a car dealership/repair place where no one spoke any English. First we pulled up to an open garage door and spoke to the person behind the counter. Unfortunately, we didn’t have a French word for “tail light”. So with motioning and pointing, he finally understood, but of course it wasn’t his department. He told us to go around the corner to the “corroissel” department. Ahh…the body repair area where they have parts! So, we found the manager’s office and again after much waving and “come with me” motions…he followed me out to the car. “Ah”. Then he needed paperwork on the car. We gave him our rental agreement and their information on the car. That didn’t seem to be what he wanted. He showed us a paper that looked like a title. No…we only have this paper, we said. So he decided that was alright and went to do the paperwork. We weren’t sure at this point if we had to come back or what. No, he showed us an estimate – 81 euros. “D’accord” (alright), I said. So we followed him down the hall to the parts department. They handed him a box…we followed him back to the garage. He motioned to a mechanic and “voila” the tail light was new in a matter of minutes. He gave us a bill for 88 euros (7 euros for the mechanic I think). We paid and were off in less than an hour! Efficiency!


I do not mean to bore you with daily details, but we found each outing an adventure in how to operate and get things done where the customs and language are different. Hopefully you will be able to use this in your travels someday.


We went to our supermarket “InterMarche”. We love it! We found that the butcher on duty spoke very good English and seemed to enjoy talking and giving us advice on what to choose. The meats are different cuts, so we weren’t sure what was what. He then gave us a lesson on ham – the French eat a lot of jambon (ham). I love cured ham and prosciutto, so he gave us tastings of the Italian and Spanish prosciutto and the French version. He said the French is far superior, of course!! So we have a new friend at the meat department – hopefully he will continue to give us good advice.


Dinner at Le Cochon – a little restaurant down a country road. Lovely country food prepared to perfection.


Bon Soir!


DAY 18 – Wednesday, September 15, 2010


Road trip to Saint Malo. I decided that I wanted to do a couple large paintings since that will be more substantial at our exhibit on September 26th. I have about eight small paintings, so if I can complete two or three larger paintings, I will be happy. So, we’re off to the art supply store and also an office supply store for printer cartridges and postcard paper for our invitations.


No problem in finding what we needed. The “Top Office” store was much like Office Depot (just that paper sizes a slightly different which we knew.) In addition, it just so happened that across the street in this industrial-type shopping area was a store that specializes in chocolate. No question we had to investigate. As soon as we stepped through the door, we were served tiny glasses of warm liquid chocolate (their version of hot chocolate). This was a deep smooth hot chocolate like I have never tasted before. And, I do eat a lot of chocolate. It was a fairly large store, beautifully displayed with little samples all over the place and they were so helpful in explaining each item. Needless to say we left with shopping bags and a chocolate buzz. Reminded me of the kids in Willy Wonka …but we were definitely the “good” kids! Love these little discoveries!


Back to the cottage for an afternoon of painting and dinner of the salmon we had purchased yesterday. Perfect!


DAY 19, Thursday, September 16, 2010


Interesting caulflower



Fabulous bread!

A bit overcast and cool in the morning…perfect for climbing the “Matterhorn” to reach the town square where Thursday is always “Farmer’s Market Day”. The market goes from 6am to 12noon. I was up and there by 9:30 which I thought was pretty good considering. This “instant” market was so much fun…people in a carnival-like atmosphere shopping and greeting friends. I was on the hunt for unusual painting subjects and they were there from a cauliflower (pictures provided) that looks like a hill of trees to whole roasted “cochons”. The smells were delightful. I bought several items which I hope to arrange in a painting. How about a round zucchini that looks like a melon. Beautiful yellow cherries, deep black grapes and an artichoke that is enormous. Of course, I had to buy breads. Just sampled a fig bread that is remarkable. I am totally addicted to the breads…where can I find an authentic French baker in Northern Virginia – I may have to go into withdrawal!!  I bought a loaf of "fig" bread that is to die for!  I have a new respect for figs!

Met Chris for lunch and did our laundry chores…it’s not all glamour after all.

DAY 20 - Friday, September 17, 2010 (My Dad's 86th Birthday!) 

I did speak with my Dad last night to make sure I reached him before his birthday.  It is always good to talk to my Dad, he has the best sense of humor of anyone I know...always finds the bright side of anything.  He is still staying busy at his on-going business of refinishing furniture.  Amazing and the best!  Happy Birthday Dad!

Finished another painting today.  Hope to have at least 10 paintings before the 26th.  Excited about the subjects since I picked up some interesting ideas at the farmer's market.  Yes, I do get excited about a beautiful bunch of grapes!  I'm weird!

Chris and I decided that we should live here...not sure how to make that happen, but this is a very liveable place.  Easy going, laid back and great food and people.  It's going to be hard to leave.  Of course we are seeing the best side - no schedules to keep, no responsibilities, just painting and eating who wouldn't want to stay.  Now we have to figure out how to recreate this attitude at home!